MIRO Assembly Guide
Check you have all the parts, wires and tools you are supposed to. You will need to supply a Philips P1 screwdriver, and a pair of good tweezers is advised.
MIRO's head is already assembled on delivery, so several of the control boards are already installed. You will not usually need to open the head shell; if you do (to service a part, for example) you will need the MIRO head-opening tool, which is supplied.
|MIRO (Body & Head)||1|
|Cable UC1:J3 - C1:J3 4-pin||1|
|Cable UC2:J5 - UC4:J4 4-pin||1|
|Cable UC4:J5 - C1:J2 4-pin (blue plugs)||1|
|Cable UC4:J3 - C1:J8 4-pin||1|
|Cable UC5:J1 - UC2:J4 4-pin||1|
|Cable UC6:J1 - UC1:J3 4-pin|
can be found attached inside the body shell
|Cable UC8:J1 - UC2:J1 4-pin||1|
|Cable UC9:J1 - C1:J7 4-pin||1|
|Cable UC14:J1 - UC5:J4 4-pin||1|
|Cable Bluetooth 4-pin female-female||1|
|MIRO head-opening tool||1|
|Pixie dust||A little (look carefully)|
Remove Body Shell
First, invert MIRO, and remove the 6 screws from the underside that secure the body shell in place (see image). Turn MIRO back over. MIRO ships with the neck lift actuator disconnected, so you will be able to push the head forward and down far enough so that the body shell is freed.
Gently lift and slide the shell to the rear of MIRO to remove, taking care to disengage the plastic slot guard from its home in the slot under MIRO's body shell. Store these, and all screws, safely, for reassembly.
The additional image, left, shows one way to safely invert your MIRO.
Most of the remainder of these instructions detail installation of the circuit boards that populate MIRO's body cavity. Each is connected to one or more of the others by the cables provided.
UC1 is the driver board for MIRO's wheel motors (you can find the name printed at the bottom of each board). Secure UC1 to the body using 2 × flanged screws (see image).
|UC1:J4||2-pin||Right wheel motor||Black & white cable|
|UC1:J6||4-pin||Right wheel motor optical encoder||Destination found underneath motor. Blue, white, yellow & red cable.|
|UC1:J5||2-pin||Left wheel motor||Black & yellow cable|
|UC1:J7||4-pin||Left wheel motor optical encoder||Destination found underneath motor. Blue, white, yellow & red cable.|
|UC1:J1||2-pin||Battery Box||Black & red cable|
|UC1:J3||4-pin||C1:J3||Use provided cable|
UC4 is the P1 "spinal" processor board. Secure it in place with 2 × flanged screws.
|UC4:J5||5-pin||C1:J2||Use provided blue-capped cable; secure under fasteners under neck (see image)|
|UC4:J3||4-pin||C1:J8||Use provided cable; secure under fasteners under neck (see image)|
|UC4:J2||2-pin||Speaker||Black & Orange Cable; speaker at front left under C1|
|UC4:J1||2-Pin||Battery Box||Black & red cable, connection is on rear of UC4|
UC2 is the driver board for the neck lift & yaw motors. Secure UC2 in place (see image) with 2 × flanged screws.
|UC2:J5||4-pin||UC4:J4||Use provided cable|
|UC2:J7||3-pin||Neck yaw gearbox motor encoder||Brown, white yellow cable|
|UC2:J6||2-pin||Neck yaw gearbox motor||Black & white cable|
|UC2:J2||3-pin||Neck pitch gearbox motor encoder||Black, blue & brown cable|
|UC2:J3||2-pin||Neck pitch gearbox motor||Yellow & black cable|
UC5 is the front sensor array board. The board is secured in place (see image) with 2 × flanged screws.
|UC5:J1||4-pin||UC2:J4||Use provided cable|
|UC5:J6||2-pin||Rear light sensor (right)||Very short green & black cable|
|UC5:J5||2-pin||Rear light sensor (left)||Long green & black cable|
|UC5:J2||5-pin||Cliff sensor (front left)||Red, brown, white, yellow & black cable|
|UC5:J7||2-pin||Front light sensor (left)||Green & black, found underneath cliff sensor|
|UC5:J3||5-pin||Cliff sensor (front right)||Red, brown, white, yellow & black cable|
|UC5:J8||2-pin||Front light sensor (right)||Yellow & black, found underneath cliff sensor|
UC8 is the LED control board (right). Once connected, secure UC8 in place (see image) with 2 × flanged screws.
|UC8:J1||4-pin||UC2:J1||Use provided cable|
UC9 is the LED control board (left). Once connected, secure UC9 in place (see image) with 2 × flanged screws.
|UC9:J1||4-pin||C1:J7||Use provided cable|
UC14 is the tail motor control board. Secure the board in place (see image) with 2 × flanged screws.
|UC14:J3||2-pin||Tail gearbox motor||Black & white cable|
|UC14:J2||3-pin||Tail left/right potentiometer||Black, blue & brown cable found at the back next to the tail|
|UC14:J4||3-pin||Tail up/down potentiometer||Black, blue & brown cable found on the side of the tail motor gearbox|
UC13 is the P3 "forebrain" processor board. Secure the board in place (see image) with 2 × flanged screws.
Do not, at this stage, install the provided SD card—this will be installed in a later step, below.
|UC13:J3||3-pin||Battery box||Black, yellow & red cable|
|J4||6-pin||Neck loom||J4 (unlabelled) found between between J3 & J4|
|Wi-Fi chip||Antenna||Tail||Take the end of the antenna (protruding from inside the tail) and connect it to the Wi-Fi chip that is attached to the back of UC13.|
Secure the board in place (see image) with 2 × flanged screws. Once installed, straighten the antenna as shown in the picture.
|Male pins||Female-Female labelled cable||UC13||Connect the pins to the bottom 4 pins on UC13, in the order shown below.|
The C1 board is the the connection point between the body and the head, and comes pre-installed. It just needs the battery power connector attaching (see image).
|J1||2-pin||Battery Box||Black & Red cable|
The next step requires MIRO to be powered up, so you should install fresh Batteries next. Select mode 8, "calibrate", and then turn MIRO on. The LIFT axis (the rack and pinion drive system that lifts MIRO's neck up and back) will move to its calibrate position. Leave MIRO powered up whilst you attach the rack & pinion with the arrow cut-out aligned with the shaft, as shown in the image. Turn MIRO off.
Use the provided cable ties to organise your wiring, taking particular care to secure any cables away from the six fixing pillars where the body shell will attach. Select mode 12, "demo", and switch MIRO on. If all is well, MIRO will start running in demo mode. You can take a look at Wrangling for some insight into what is happening.
However, we are using demo mode here just to establish that everything is working more-or-less correctly. If not, and especially if your robot sounds like a telephone, go over all the connections you have made and check them carefully to ensure they are fully home.
Reattaching the body shell
Select mode 9, "shell release", and power up. The neck lift will be lowered until the head is forward and down, allowing the shell to be reattached. Power off and immediately select mode zero (all switches OFF) since it is difficult to do this after the shell has been reattached.
Connect UC1:J3 to UC6:J1 (the board attached to the shell) (see image), and then put the body shell back in place (as you are doing this, locate the white plastic slot guard into the slot in the underside of the body shell, taking care not to apply any force). Secure the body shell by reinserting the screws that were removed from the underside of the body.
|UC6:J1||4-pin||UC1:J3||Use long black, brown, yellow & red cable connected to the board on the body shell.|